Getting Your Template Dimensions Right
Sublimation phone cases are one of the most satisfying products to make, but they're also one of the easiest to get wrong. The difference between a professional-looking case and a sloppy one almost always comes down to the template. If your design is even slightly off, you'll end up with misaligned artwork, white edges showing through, or a camera cutout sitting in the wrong place. This guide covers the practical steps for building accurate sublimation templates for the iPhone 16 range.
Template Dimensions for Each iPhone 16 Model
Every model in the iPhone 16 series has a slightly different case size, which means each one needs its own template. The approximate printable area dimensions for standard sublimation cases are:
- iPhone 16: approximately 74mm x 152mm
- iPhone 16 Plus: approximately 80mm x 165mm
- iPhone 16 Pro: approximately 76mm x 155mm
- iPhone 16 Pro Max: approximately 82mm x 168mm
These measurements can vary slightly between blank suppliers, so always check with your specific supplier if they provide their own template files. Many sublimation phone case suppliers include downloadable templates, and using those will always give you the most accurate fit for their particular blanks.
Bleed Area and Why It Matters
Every template should include a bleed area of 3 to 5mm on all sides beyond the printable zone. The bleed is the extra design space that wraps around the edges of the case or gets trimmed during pressing. Without it, even tiny misalignment during pressing will leave white gaps at the edges of your case.
When setting up your canvas in your design software, add the bleed to your overall dimensions. For example, if you're designing for the iPhone 16 at 74mm x 152mm, your canvas should be at least 80mm x 158mm (adding 3mm bleed on each side). Fill this entire area with your design or background colour so there's no blank space to show through.
Camera Cutout Placement
The camera cutout position differs across the iPhone 16 models. The standard iPhone 16 and 16 Plus have a diagonal dual-camera arrangement, while the Pro and Pro Max models feature a larger triple-camera island. Getting the cutout position wrong is one of the most common template mistakes, and it's instantly visible on the finished product.
If your blank supplier provides a template with the cutout already marked, use it. If you're building your own template from scratch, measure the cutout position on a physical blank case. Place a piece of graph paper against the case and mark where the camera hole sits relative to the top and side edges. Transfer those measurements into your design file as a non-printing guide layer.
Software for Template Work
For precise template design, Adobe Photoshop or Affinity Designer are the strongest options. Both allow you to work in exact millimetre dimensions, set up guide layers for cutouts and bleed areas, and export at the correct resolution. Affinity Designer is a particularly good choice if you want to avoid a monthly subscription, as it's a one-time purchase with similar precision tools.
Canva can work for phone case designs, but it's harder to set exact canvas dimensions in millimetres and doesn't give you the same level of control over bleed and cutout guides. If you're planning to make phone cases regularly, investing time in learning Photoshop or Affinity will pay off quickly.
Resolution and Export Settings
Set your working file to 300 DPI from the start. This is the standard resolution for sublimation printing, and it ensures your design stays sharp and detailed on the finished case. If you start with a 72 DPI file (common for web images) and scale it up later, the result will look soft and pixelated once printed.
When sourcing images or graphics for your design, make sure they're high resolution too. A background image that looks fine on screen at 72 DPI will break down badly when printed at the size of a phone case at 300 DPI.
Export your finished design as a PNG file at 300 DPI. PNG preserves sharp edges and supports transparency if your design needs it. TIFF is another good option for maximum quality, though the file sizes are larger. Avoid JPEG for designs with text or sharp lines, as the compression can introduce visible artefacts.
Test Print Before Committing
Before pressing your design onto a blank case, always print it out on plain paper first. Cut around the printed design and hold it against your blank case to check alignment. Does the camera cutout line up? Does the design reach the edges properly? Are there any areas where the image gets cropped in an awkward way?
This two-minute check can save you from wasting a blank. Sublimation cases aren't the cheapest blanks to work with, so getting the alignment right before you press is worth the extra step every time.
Colour Mode
Work in CMYK colour mode if your software supports it. Sublimation printers output in CMYK, and what you see on your RGB monitor won't be an exact match to what comes off the press. Working in CMYK from the start gives you a closer preview of the printed result. Bright neon greens and vivid blues are the colours most likely to shift between screen and print, so keep that in mind when choosing your palette.
If you're new to sublimation phone cases and want to see the full process from pressing to finishing, our guide on how to print a phone case using a sublimation printer walks through the heat press stage in detail.